Teaching Kids the Importance of Keeping Track of Memories (For Disaster and Historical Purposes)

There are certain items we possess that have more than just monetary value, and sometimes it is difficult for children to realize this. It is important however, that we teach children the difference between items have a high financial value (electronics) and items that have long-term meaningful worth (achievement certificates). For example, a third grade report card may not be of much value to a teenager, but when that teen becomes of midlife age, that once insignificant document is now precious. As a middle-aged adult, I look at the "collectibles" of my young children and my diseased parents, and realize they are not just fun to look at, but a jewel to behold. Learning the true value of items we possess is one of the life skills taught in the 4-H Youth Development program, and should be a lesson taught to our own children.

Picture a scenario where a family finds out that severe weather is heading their direction, and notified to evacuate to a safe location. The family tells the children and decide they will depart in the morning, and can only take minimum supplies and valuables, because of constraints on space in the vehicle. What items will the adults pack, and what will the children’s choices be?

As adults, we know to take important documentation regarding our home, finances and medical needs. However, children on the other hand may have difficultly choosing, when they learn they can only take one suitcase. It is important that we begin to teach our children to begin to organize their things and separate what is important or not.

This document focuses on important papers and photographs; and how to store, organize, and prioritize them. We can support and teach our children to be prepared and give them tools to assist them.

Methods for Safe Keeping and Archiving Important Documents and Pictures

Items should:

• Be stored in their original (paper) and digital format, but in some cases you may wish to digitize paper documents. 
• Be prioritized into categories such as Mundane, Important and Critical. 
• Be kept in a safe, water resistant and portable, designated spot for retrieval and evacuation. A plastic tote box works well for this, as well as zip-top bags within the tote to subcategorize. 
• Consider the “shelf life” of a document. Birth certificates, mortgage papers and deeds should be kept for a lifetime, whereas monthly utility bill records may only need to be kept for a year. 
• For families and individuals with more than one computer or electronic device, the Cloud can be useful as a repository. The Cloud is electronic off-site storage or an online web storage space, some of which are free and some are not. 
• Purchase a portable back up hard drive to archive files on a regular basis. Computer hard drives, phone storage and thumb drives can be lost, stolen or damaged, causing the information to be lost forever or prompting expensive recovery services. Recording these data to a compact disc or DVD is also a good option. 
• Consider storing critical copies with other family members or safe deposit box allowing for redundancy protection. 

Whether paper or digital, store documents and images sorted by the primary individual it concerns. In the short term, it is tempting and acceptable to sort the images by event, such as Family Reunion 2009, but ultimately as time goes on, individuals will want their own images or documents. Sorting single person images are easy. For example, a picture of Sally goes in a plastic tote or electronic file labeled with her name. Pictures of multiple individuals can be stored under the eldest family member in the photo. You may create your own organizing system for this purpose.
Purchase or set aside a section of files or tote box for grabbing and evacuating in hurry.

So if your papers, files and photos need organizing, remember – we never know when a disaster may come and we need to evacuate. Being organized and prepared will reduce stress levels, aid in recovery and preserve valuable items for long-term benefit. If we include our children in this process, they can assist with the task and start a healthy habit that they may carry into adulthood.

Sources:
Targeting Life Skills in 4-H, Marilyn N. Norman and Joy C. Jordan, UF/IFAS Extension Publication #4HS FS101.9, 2006.
Keeping a Household Inventory and Protecting Valuable Records, Michael T. Olexa and Lauren Grant, UF/IFAS Extension Publication #DH138, 2016.

From a Fact Sheet by:
G. Koerner, 4-H Program Assistant, A. Lazzari, 4-H Agent, G. Whitworth, Extension Agent, Family and Consumer Sciences, University of Florida / IFAS Brevard County Extension, November 21, 2017

Really Good Chili

For today's Annual United Methodist Church Charge Conference and Pot Luck Dinner, I made a new chili recipe that came out really well!

About little bit about the conference: it is always a nice event when we get together with the other local United Methodist Churches and give an accountability report of what has and will transpire for the year.  Out little Saint Andrew United Methodist Church, and sister churches in the area are doing great things to show people the love of Christ.

The Chili I made from scratch, and not really following a recipe, so therefore I have to jot down how I did it so it can be done again.  It's like any good scientist would do in documenting an experiment with procedural notes, so as it can be repeated by someone else.

Really Really Good Three Day Chili

Hardware

I used a 5 quart Lodge Cast Iron Dutch Oven, and a 10 inch cast iron skillet.

Software

Dry Red Kidney Beans, 1 pound.

10 cups of water

1 large white onion, peeled and cut in half

2 chopped cloves of garlic

5 Bay Leaves

1/2 teaspoon Chile Pepper

1/2 teaspoon Cumin

2 teaspoons of Salt

1 pound cubed steak, finely chopped when partially frozen

2, 10 ounce cans of Original Ro-Tel Tomatoes with green chilies

Additional Salt and Pepper to taste.

Method

Thursday night, I cooked the Kidney Beans exactly according to Pati Jinich's recipe Beans: Frijoles de Olla or Beans from the Pot, then I put them in the fridge until the next evening after the dutch oven cooled a bit.

Friday night, the next day, I put the pot back on the stove on medium heat.

At the same time in a skillet I browned the chopped beef and added 1/2 of the onion and the garlic all chopped fine.  The beef was so lean, that I had to add 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil.  When it was all nice and brown and the onions translucent, I deglazed the skillet with a little (1/2 cup) water and added it all to the bean pot.

Next into the bean pot I added the spices and Ro-Tel.  Then I let it simmer about 4 hours. It was time for bed again, so I let it cool and put it back in the fridge until the next day. This rest time for the chili lets all the flavors marry and deepen in flavor.

Saturday morning simmered it for 4 more hours prior to serving. I removed all the Bay Leaves, so the consumers of my chili wouldn't die with a Bay Leaf in their throat. The crowd seemed to enjoy it and I would absolutely make it again.

The total cost of the dish was about $13 and served about 15 people.
Beef - $6.00
Beans - $2.00
Ro-Tel - $2.00
Spices and Vegetables $3.00

I hope this recipe works out for you!  

- gus

My Love of Knot Tying

In recent months, I have been able to implement my love of knot tying into the 4-H Youth Development program. In the next upcoming weeks I am offering a knot tying class that is completely booked; and I have had great success and satisfaction in teaching kindergarten children how to tie their shoes.

My knot tying began when I was a boy, and my dad taught me how to tie knots on our sailboat.  Later, I perfected those skills as a Boy Scout. A few years before he passed away, he gave me his well-used Ashley Book of Knots, by Clifford W. Ashley, which is the world standard for knot tyers everywhere. Recently I found this poem which warmed my soul.

Ode to Rope
As I cast off for that very first time,
The “rope” in my hand has now become “line”.
And hauling the sails to the top of the mast,
That “rope”, now a “halyard” holds strong, taught and fast.
Then sailing in brisk winds full force on a beat.
The sails are trimmed in by that “rope” that’s a “sheet”.
And now at my anchorage with sails safely stowed,
I trust in that “rope” that now serves as a “rode”.
Through all my life I will never lose hope,
Of a reason or time to play with a rope.

By Lt/C Barry Briggs, S, of the Durham, NC Power Squadron, published in the August 1999 edition of the National Power Squadron magazine, The Ensign.

gus

Getting The Most Out of Your GPS Receiver – Consider Geotagging

An alternate title for this story could be, "Using GPS in Genealogy, A Marvelous Tool, Part 2"  See Part 1.

We are fortunate to have tools such as the Global Positioning System (GPS) to help us navigate anywhere in the world. Initially for military use, and then expanded to commercial shipping, the technology has evolved to the point where every person on the planet either owns a GPS “device” or is directly affected by one. A feature on today’s cameras and smart phones often overlooked and underappreciated, is attaching GPS location data to ordinary images which is called geotagging.

At the bottom of this story is a challenge with a prize.  I encourage you to read on and go for it!

The ubiquitous influence of this technology can be seen in a car, on the news and even in social media. Who could have ever realized that the Russian flight of Sputnik, the first man-made satellite launched in 1957, could lead to a geotagged selfie of a person on Facebook®? Consider what technologies are utilized in this example. Being used to send this image is a marvel of hardware and software including a mobile telephone, a GPS receiver, the internet and complex programming for the sender and the receiver of this information. But besides entertainment, are there other ways we can use these tools for self and public benefit, and how did GPS get to be so accurate? Of course!

Timeline of GPS Accuracy

Between 1978 and 1985, ten NavStar satellites were launched as the first GPS system for military use. In the 1990s the first consumer GPS units became available and were accurate to about 100 yards. The inaccuracy was due to Selective Availability (SA) which is programming of the GPS signal to make them less accurate for nonmilitary use. During the 1990–91 Gulf War, the shortage of military GPS units caused many troops and their families to buy readily available civilian units. Selective Availability significantly impeded the U.S. military's own battlefield use of these GPS, so the military made the decision to turn it off for the duration of the war. On May 1, 2000 President Clinton turned off SA completely. Since that time, because of more sophisticated satellites, systems such as the Wide Area Augmentation System (WAAS) to augment GPS, and land based beacons accuracy has increased to less than 1 inch!

Geotagging

The word Geotag is derived from geo, referring to earth and tag which means to mark. Closely related to geotag is the term waypoint. Waypoints are sets of coordinates (north or south and east or west) that identify a point in physical space referred to as longitude and latitude. If a person leaves the Earth they could also measure altitude. A geotag is that waypoint that has been attached to that application, photo or message. Depending on the technology and software, the geotag information may be more or less accurate. Accuracy however is relative to the needs of the user, in that a person looking for a restaurant, or car in a parking lot needs less accuracy than someone searching for something very small such as a property line or utility cover under snow. These two examples although practical, do not enrich our lives per se, so why should we know more?

It is helpful to know and to refer back to where location information was collected years later, and we can if we attach compass coordinates to our data (text, image, video). Examples include coordinated attached to:

• A beautiful plant or historical marker you want to show to someone else.
• A grave stone or historical landmark for genealogical purposes.
• A pothole in the road to notify public road or utility companies.
• The perfect fishing spot you found on your last outing.
• A quick reference to your location in an emergency situation.

To enable Geotagging on your electronic device go to the Setup menu and look for an option to adjust your location parameters to enable or disable it. Once it is enabled, proceed to take a picture and then review the picture in your image gallery. In the image gallery open the picture and look for the option to show picture details. You should see a screen similar to the one left. Notice in the picture details is the filename, date, time, etc., but most importantly, the information we need in under location where it shows exactly where the picture was taken. This number can then be recorded and then back referenced in Google Earth or other mapping software to find its exact location. Easy! Right? It does take some practice, but the information you can get from this simple feature may be very useful in the future.

Tip! To enable "geotag" on your phone camera, open up your camera app and check the Settings there if it is not in your general Settings.

Here is a challenge with a prize!  In the photo left are the coordinates North 28.359655°, West -80.780788.  The first person who emails me with the nearest city and cross streets to this location I will personally send a prize and highlight them (if they wish) on all my social media streams. My email address is guskoerner@gmail.com. (I know I'm a nerd.)

Where have I been? Water for everyone.

Last night I headed to the store to pick up family groceries to carry me and my wife over for a few days. Drinking water was not on my grocery list. As I drove down the road about 9 PM, my default radio station was on NPR and I listened to BBC Radio, World Hacks, The Sun Water Solution and I asked myself, Where have I been?  Why didn't I know this?  What can I do so share this information to the masses?  Perhaps this is a start.  Please listen to the story or check my sources.

This is a story about how the most amazing ideas do not always work how you would like in practise. In theory it is so simple. You put disease-ridden water into a two litre plastic bottle, screw on the lid and leave it in the sun. After six hours on a cloudless day, almost all the bacteria and bugs that cause diseases like cholera and diarrhoea are killed or inactivated by the UV light and gentle warming. Professor Kevin McGuigan has proven this in the lab, but for the last 20 years he has been trying to get it working in rural African communities. It has not been anywhere near as easy as you might think.

Sources: 

• About the author of this article Dr. Kevin McGuigan, director of the RCSI Solar Disinfection Research Group, Ireland,  Link
• Wikipedia, Solar Water Disinfection, Link
• SODIS (Solar Water Disinfection) started as an initiative of Eawag, the Swiss Federal Institute of Aquatic Sciences and Technology. Link
• SODIS from the CDC (U.S, Centers for Disease Control and Prevention), Link

Maps for Going Afield

Navigation has always thrilled me using maps, a compass, GPS or the stars. Using a standard USGS topographic map is especially a pleasure because it is like hiking through the woods holding a piece of art. They are as beautiful to me as the surroundings themselves and often contain treasures on the landscape that do not show up through other methods of navigation.

About 1976 I learned this skill of laminating the map on a piece of natural cloth, making it more durable and I've always wanted to do it again and share it with folk like me. so here it is...

Maps for Going Afield

An original article by T. Fegley, Field and Stream Magazine, 1971. Reproduced verbatim, and by permission for preservation of this skill.

With more and more people taking to the out of doors and many wishing to get away from it by all exploring new territory, topographic maps have gained a new popularity. Similarly, hunters, fisherman, hikers, backpackers, snowmobilers, and Jeep-born navigators rely on their maps in the field and constantly use them for reference. As new trails are discovered and plotted, the map becomes a tool matching the compass in value. 

Although the cost of a topo map is small, constant replacement of heavily-used maps is unnecessary if you take 30 minutes or so to reinforce them with a cloth backing. It is easy and inexpensive and will give more mileage to your valuable silent guides. 

Basic equipment for mounting your topo includes scissors, a yardstick, razor blade cutter, two pans, commercial wall paste, paintbrush, and backing material such as an old starch-free muslin sheet. The sheet must be larger than the map since it is stretched and tacked along the edges. A smooth, tight surface can be had by fitting the sheet over a straight edged piece of plywood and tacking it on the opposite side after stretching. 

Fold the map so that it fits conveniently in your coat pocket. Unfold and cut the map carefully along the folded lines with a razor blade. Since the larger 7 1/2 minute maps may require more folds to get to pocket size, only the creases of the larger sections need to be cut. It is unnecessary to divide the map into too many small segments. 

Float the pieces in a pan of warm water for about a minute. With a brush, apply the paste to the back of each section and position them on the sheeting about 1/8 inch apart. The paste should be completely free of lumps before applying. 

After mounting the sections in their proper order, clean off the excess paste with a damp cloth. A gentle pressure will assure a contact between the paper and cloth. The map must be allowed to dry slowly and thoroughly for 24 to 48 hours depending upon drying conditions. 

When the map is completely dry, cut it from the board and trim along the papers edge to keep the cloth from fraying. Should any of the maps edges lift after use, a bit of white glue will do the trick. 

Your reinforced map is now ready for many hours of use and should stand hundreds of foldings. Along with a compass it will provide pleasure and safety for your travels into the wild. 

As an alternative, the map may be mounted in one piece by applying moisture to the back with a damp cloth to soften the paper before pasting. The map is then mounted and cleaned by applying pressure from the center toward the edges with the moist cloth. When dry, the map is folded to fit into the pocket. - Tom Fegely

References for Topographic Map Lamination to Cloth:

• Tom Fegley, “Maps for Going Afield”, Field and Stream Magazine, June 1971, page 150.
• William Hillcourt, “Your Hiking Pals”, Boy’s Life Magazine, October 1947, page 11. “I’m happy when I’m hiking, pack upon my back, I’m happy when I’m hiking off the beaten track…”, an old Boy Scout tune.

Interesting and Fun Alternatives to Conventional Freshwater Fishing

The reasons to go fishing are many. It is a time-honored sport that can be relaxing, fun and contribute to a healthy mind and body. A rod and reel are what most think of as the primary tools, but a few alternatives to conventional methods for catching freshwater fish, namely bow fishing, cane pole and survival fishing can also bring another level of fun and excitement. Catching a fish is challenging enough even with the most sophisticated equipment and years of experience. On the other hand, it is a sport that can be done with success by a young child under adult supervision with equipment that can cost less than $25. To the angler who is experienced and thinks they would like to try an alternative, using more primitive methods can be rewarding to connect the fisherman with traditional methods, ways that were once the only means to provide fare for the table. Additionally, the target species of fish caught by these primitive methods are nongame and non-native fish, which are a threat to native game species.

Bow Fishing is done with archery equipment but using a fiberglass arrow with a barbed point, and the arrow is connected to the bow via a mechanical reel or simple spool. Done from land or by boat, during the day or night, this is an exhilarating challenge. Image left is Gus in 1976 with Gar and bow in hand. Photo description below.

Cane Pole Fishing often referred by Florida statute as the cane-pole exemption, because cane pole fishing does not require a license. The law states, “In Florida you must be a resident who is fishing with live or natural bait, using poles or lines that are not equipped with a fishing line - retrieval mechanism, and you are fishing for noncommercial purposes in your home county. However, you must have a valid fishing license to fish by any method in a fish management area.”

Survival Fishing is simply cane pole fishing, but without the pole. Using natural or artificial bait, natural or synthetic string, this method will strip away most of the technology and just leave the fisherman verses the fish.  If successful, it will bring a sense of confidence to the angler that perhaps they could survive in the wilderness with minimal tools. Exciting!

Although Florida fishing laws are used as an example, other states have similar laws and/or exemptions so checking with the state game commission on a regular basis is important. Fishing regulations change so what may be legal this year may not be the next.

Since not all Florida fish can be taken by all methods, clarification is necessary. Florida freshwater fish are divided into game fish that have specific bag and length limits and may only be taken with pole-and-line or rod-and-reel, and nongame fish, which are all others.

See the chart for types of Florida Game Fish. Non-native fish are those that do not occur in Florida naturally; most should be harvested and never released. Florida Nongame Fish includes all freshwater fish that are NOT defined as game fish. A license is required to take nongame fish, but additional gear types are allowed (as mentioned above).

** See regulations for exemptions other than Cane Pole.
♦ See regulations for special region-specific restrictions.

Resources:
• Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission, Freshwater Fishing Regulations, 2016-2017.

Photo description: The photo was taken by my Mom when I was 16 or 17 years old in Fort Worth, TX after a day of fishing on the Trinity River, downtown Fort Worth.  My buddies and I would go there regularly to shoot Carp and Gar. Although some were just thrown away (because they eat game fish), most were harvested and given to resident neighbors to the river who ate them.  We made a lot of friends when we gave away our catch. In the background is my first car, a 1967 Rambler American which I kept until 1982.

This article also appears as a University of Florida / IFAS, Brevard County Extension Fact Sheet Number 6175, by Gus Koerner 4-H Program Assistant.

Purifying Water During an Emergency

This story is posted on the exact date and time that a tree fell on our home during hurricane Matthew. I decided on that day, that emergency preparations should start now and be ongoing. One never knows when a disaster will strike.

Purifying Water During an Emergency

The treatments described below work only to remove bacteria or viruses from water. If you suspect the water is unsafe because of chemicals, oils, poisonous substances, sewage or other contaminants, do not drink the water. Don't drink water that is dark colored, has an odor or contains solid materials.

Storing Water Safely

• The best source of drinking water during an emergency is water you have stored with your emergency supplies.
• Store one gallon of water per person per day--enough for at least three days.
• Store-bought, factory-sealed bottled water is best. Check for an expiration date and replace as needed. 
• If you choose to fill your own water containers:
• Collect the water from a safe supply.
• Store water in thoroughly washed plastic containers such as soft drink bottles. You can also purchase food-grade plastic buckets or drums.
• Seal water containers tightly, label with date, and store in a cool, dark place.
• Replace water every six months.
• Never reuse a container that held toxic substances such as pesticides, chemicals or oil.

Purifying By Boiling

If your tap water is unsafe, boiling is the best method to kill disease-causing organisms.

If tap water is unavailable, the following may be considered as potential water sources. Water taken from these sources should be boiled before drinking.:

• Rainwater
• Lakes
• Rivers and streams
• Natural springs
• Ponds

Caution: Many Chemical Pollutants Will Not Be Removed By Boiling.

• Cloudy water should be filtered before boiling. Filter cloudy water using coffee filters, paper towels, cheesecloth or a cotton plug in a funnel. 
• Bring the water to a rolling boil for at least one full minute.
• Let the water cool before drinking.

Purifying By Adding Liquid Chlorine Bleach

Add two drops of household bleach per gallon to maintain water quality while in storage.

Place the water in a clean container. Add the amount of bleach according to the table below.

Mix thoroughly and let stand for at least 60 minutes before drinking.

Treating Water With Household Bleach Containing 5.25-8.25 Percent Chlorine

Volume of Water to be Treated Bleach Solution to Add

For 1 quart (0.946 L) of water, use 5 drops (0.25 mL) of bleach.

For 1/2 gallon (1.89 L) of water, use 10 drops (0.5 mL) of bleach.

For 1 gallon (3.79 L) of water, use 1/4 teaspoon (1.23 mL) of bleach.

For 5 gallons (18.9 L) of water, use 1 teaspoon (4.92 mL) of bleach.

For 10 gallons (37.9 L) of water, use 2 teaspoons (9.86 mL) of bleach.

• Treat water by adding liquid household bleach, such as Clorox or Purex.
• Household bleach is typically between 5.25 percent and 8.25 percent chlorine. Read the label.
• Avoid using bleaches that contain perfumes, dyes and other additives. Be sure to read the label.
• Cloudy water should be filtered before adding bleach.

Caution: Bleach will not kill some disease-causing organisms commonly found in surface water. Bleach will not remove chemical pollutants.

Source: Washington State Department of Health, 2013, Link here.

Rust Removal by Electrolysis

Rust Removal by Electrolysis

The following article details the process of using electrolysis for removing rust from tools. Credits are listed at the bottom of the article. I think you'll find it applicable reading for those flea market tools. Now here's the disclaimer: I make no claims as to the effectiveness of this process as instructed by the authors, nor am I responsible for any injury or otherwise negative consequences from employing their technique. Pay attention to any warnings in the article, and if you are not comfortable with the process, or cannot agree with the terms of this disclaimer, then do not read the following text and do not employ the technique. Thanks, Rick.

Cleaning Rusty Tools; Electrolysis Made Easy

Rust removal and antique tool cleaning is a very controversial subject among old tool collectors and users. Antique tool collectors tend to buy the finer examples of their tool of preference and most will not attempt to clean, fix or restore it in any way. Old tool users on the other hand tend to avoid the high priced "spiffy" tools in favor of tools that show their age. These tools are often found in grampa's basement or at estate sales and they may have either been heavily used or long forgotten and allowed to deteriorate with age. These tools need some form of restoration to return them to working condition.

Electrolysis is the least destructive and most thorough method available to remove oxidation. Electrolysis removes no base metal and does not require grinders, wire wheels, scrappers, acids or sandpaper, and when done properly can remove rust and oxidation yet leave the appearance of "patina" so valued by the collectors. Electrolysis comes as close as possible to a compromise to the ideals of both categories of old tool enthusiasts.

Introduction

This is a fantastic way to remove rust and oxidation from steel and iron tools. It is not recommended for brass, aluminum, copper or exotic metals and alloys.

Electrolysis is a method of removing iron oxide by passing a small electrical charge from a battery or battery charger through the rusty metal to stimulate an exchange of ions while the tool is submerged in an electrolyte solution.

Don't let that description worry you because the actual process is quite easy to accomplish. Let's get to the stuff that makes it work.

This system is so simple, easy to make and to use that anyone that collects or accumulates old tools for use or preservation should keep a small electrolysis system available in their shop.

There are many variations of the setup but this is the simple, down and dirty method that requires a minimum of time, resources and understanding.

After you have a system cookin' you can bone up on the whys and wherefores. You will gain the experience and understanding to begin creating a custom system based on your own needs and understanding.

I'm no guru. I've tried it, I liked it, so I learned it. My background is/was industrial electronics so the theory wasn't new to me but the application was. I find it fascinating that something so simple can accomplish something so significant.

The credit for the first post on this subject should go to Ted Kinsey. Larry Holland contributed a technical description of the electrochemistry at work. Many thanks to Ted, Larry and to Scott Grandstaff for their editorial reviews of this text and help in making it as accurate and to the point as possible. At the end of this document I've included a couple of url's on the subject.

What I'll try and do here is cut to the meat of the subject and get you started so you can answer most of these questions on your own without having to ask "what if?" I'll also be glad to help anyone with questions by private mail at anytime. For those of you that like the technical side of things Larry Holland's description of the electrochemistry at work is included at the end of this page.

List of Supplies

1. A two to five gallon plastic (non metallic) container.
2. A two amp or larger automotive battery charger with an ammeter.
3. A moderately flat piece of iron or steel.
4. A box of Arm and Hammer "Washing Soda" or "Baking Soda".
5. A tablespoon measure.
6. One to five gallons of water.
7. A pair of kitchen type rubber gloves.
8. A kitchen or similar sink full of warm sudsy water.
9. A non metallic 3M type Scotch Bright Finishing Pad product #10144NA.
10. A small tooth brush size stainless steel wire brush.
11. Paste or liquid, non-silicone, car wax.

Supply Discussion

1. The container can be any shape, size or configuration that is large enough to hold your tool completely submerged. Kmart, Walmart and many other department stores sell small, 6-7 inch deep, flat, clear plastic storage bins for $3 to $5. Restaurants and fast food chains often throw out five gallon buckets with lids that will work well. Small to medium trash cans are a possibility The key element here is non-conductive (plastic) containers.

2. Any power supply that provides a steady 6-24 volt dc current at 2 amps or larger should work well. Remember "this ain't rocket science." An inexpensive 10 amp battery charger with an ammeter can be bought for under $30 and is the best suited device for the job. The charger with an ammeter is almost essential. With heavily rusted metal getting good contact to the tool is not easy, and the ammeter is the simplest way to tell if you have got it. Avoid using the little overnight trickle chargers.

3. You need an anode for the (red) positive side of the battery charger. Best? A stainless steel kitchen pan lid because it is small, has lots of surface area and is usually cheap (if your wife doesn't catch you). The anode is sacrificed and will eventually erode away to nothing. Stainless steel is best because it deteriorates the slowest, however one reader advised that using stainless steel creates a toxic waste, so you may want to stick with plain steel or iron, although this whole procedure is arguably potentially toxic. Anyway, most any steel or piece of iron will work. Its size in bulk is not as important as its size in surface area. Look for something about 5 inches square or what will fit your container and still not come into direct contact with your rusty tool. You can bend it, fold it, cut it. Again, "this ain't rocket science." Many kitchen tools are stainless steel, but perhaps it's best to use an old cookie sheet. The larger the surface area the more efficient your system will be.

4. You need to obtain one of two chemicals to add to the water. No complications here. Get yourself a box of Arm and Hammer "Washing Soda" or "Baking Soda." Both are readily available at your local food store.

(TIP) "Washing Soda" is found with the clothes washing detergents. It is a yellow box with the familiar Arm and Hammer logo and is usually grouped with the fabric softeners and detergent enhancers.

"Baking Soda" is also an Arm and Hammer product and can be found near the flour and baking supplies at your local food store. Chemically these products are different, but similar and both will work. If you have a choice between the two use the "Washing Soda." If you can't find it don't hesitate a second about using the "Baking Soda." Ask your wife about them. She probably has one or both in the house already. Repeat after me... "This ain't rocket science"

5. Using either "Washing Soda" or "Baking Soda" add about 1 tablespoon per gallon of water to your container. You now have an electrolyte solution. Although the solution becomes a nasty color and is filled with the residue of old rust you can continue to use it time and again, provided you keep your anode clean.

6. Add the appropriate amount of water to your container. The water should be deep enough to cover the tools you will clean but not so high that it will overflow when the tool is placed in the water. You now have a "vat."

(TIP) The first time you fill your "vat" add water one gallon at a time. After pouring each gallon into the vat make a mark on the outside of the container with a bold black marker and label it 1, 2, 3, etc. for each gallon you add. In the future you no longer have to measure your water. Just use a garden hose and fill to the appropriate line.

7. After adding water and Soda powder the water is hard on your hands. Wear the rubber gloves while working in and with the electrolyte. This is a general precaution. The electrolyte is not an acid nor is it seriously bad to contact your skin but precautions are always best.

8. After removing everything that is not steel or iron from the tool, clean it in warm sudsy water using dish washing detergent. Remove any dirt, oil and grease that might retard the electrolysis.

9. You're looking for the 3M brand "non-metallic" gray finishing pad part No. 10144NA sold in the paint departments of hardware stores. Trust me and stick with this one. Cut each pad in half for use.

(TIP) The 3M Scotch Brite pad is a pretty important piece to the process.

It is used to remove the black ionized oxidation residue left by the electrolysis. You don't want scuff pads. 3M finishing pads are very sharp but on cast iron they break down quickly. These are advantages because it gets the heaviest concentrations of ionized oxide off quickly and by the time you get to the base metal it has worn down significantly and does not leave any marks behind on the metal. The metal does not look sanded, scuffed or abraded.

If you use scuff pads of any make or model you will work at least twice as hard to accomplish half as much cleaning. Trust me. I've tried them all and you especially want to avoid kitchen scour pads. They're worthless.

I found that once I tried the 3M finishing pad that it literally took all the work out of the final wash up and they were well worth the few cents extra I paid. You'll get two sometimes three planes to the pad and I cut them in half before use so double that.

These are 3M "FINISHING PADS" gray in color, packed two to a wrapper and bear the part No. 10144NA. Cut them in 1/2 for use. They do have "grit" and they breakdown quickly thus they cut well but don't leave abrasions on the tools. It is used lightly and it wears out quickly. No metal is removed and the base metal is not scratched or abraded. In fact, you can clean down to whatever level of patina you desire be left on the tool. This is a subjective call on your part. How clean do you want it?

10. This small tooth brush sized stainless steel wire brush can be found at most hard ware stores for $2. It's used to get into the areas that your fingers and Scotch Bright pad won't fit. A light circular motion to the hard to reach area and the residue just falls off.

11. The final supply item is a product to seal and protect against future rust. This is a very subjective area so I'll make some points, a suggestion and leave it to you to develop a preference.

A. Make certain the product does not contain any silicone. It plays havoc on your projects when you apply the finish.

B. Avoid any product that contains an abrasive, like compounds and polishes. Most (but not all) of these are in paste form.

C. Use a product that is readily available and easy to apply so you don't put off protecting your tools.

D. The common practice of using WD-40 may be counter-productive. Based on the experience of other collectors I'm told that WD-40 has a high lacquer thinner content and may damage paint and japanning.

My preferences are liquid "Kit" brand car wax (yellow bottle) and Tri-Flo penetrating oil. Both are common products nationally.

Let's Make It Work

1. Put on your rubber gloves and wash your tool in warm soapy water and make sure to remove any grease or oil. These areas will not be de-rusted effectively if not thoroughly cleaned.

2. Fill your vat with the appropriate amount of water and add 1 tablespoon of your "Washing or Baking Soda" per gallon of water.

3. Clip the "positive" red lead of your battery charger to the object you've chosen for an anode and place to the side or at one end of your vat. It is not necessary that the anode be fully covered by the water but the more surface area that is available for the electrolysis to faster the process proceeds. Try to keep the red clip from your battery charger out of the solution to avoid it being eroded away with the anode.

4. For your first trial use an old junk tool or piece of metal. Clip the "negative" black lead of your battery charger to your iron tool to be cleaned and place it in the vat. Be certain that you have a nice tight grip on the tool with the black "negative" clip. Make sure the tool is fully covered by the water. So far I've not experienced a problem with allowing the black clip to be immersed in the solution. My clip remains intact and undamaged.

(TIP) The tool should have a clear "line of sight" path to your anode. If the tool is large you may have to turn the tool occasionally to de-rust it evenly and completely. If your anode is a cookie sheet or something similar you can bend it into a shape that will conform to the shape of the tool being cleaned or the contour of your vat for faster operation. The tool should be fully submerged at all times.

5. Check that the tool and the anode are not touching and have about 2 inches or more separation between them. If placed too close together the current on your charger will be higher than expected.

6. Set the battery charger to its highest setting. Plug in your battery charger and note the amount of current indicated on the ammeter. There is no right or wrong amperage except that you must not exceed the rating of your battery charger. Once you have applied power don't put your hands in the vat. Always turn off the power before attempting to check your tool or make adjustments to your system.

7. You will begin to see bubbles form on the tool and rise to the top. Congratulations, you're in business.

(TIP) A note about the gasses released during the process. Small amounts of hydrogen are released as a result of the electrolysis. You will notice while using your system just how small this amount of gas is. However, to avoid a concentration of hydrogen, never cover the vat while in use. Although minute this hydrogen is flammable and I would not operate the vat next to your water heater, stove or other open flame.

8. Once the rust has turned to a dark gray or black it's time to remove the tool and wash it in warm soapy water using the Scotch Brite pad to remove the residue. If the tool comes completely clean you're done. If not, place it back in the vat for another session. Dry your tool thoroughly and proceed to the next step.

9. A freshly electro-cleaned tool will immediately begin to rust again so it is important that you immediately treat your tool with your choice of wax or oils.

Trouble Shooting and Things to Watch For

If a brown or green "crud" begins to form and float to the top around the anode this perfectly normal. For as long as the anode lasts you will need to occasionally remove it and clean off the crud that forms on it. A putty knife works well for this.

If your tool is painted or japanned do not leave it in the electrolysis vat any longer than necessary to achieve your goal. If the japanning is in poor condition it can start to turn loose if left for say, overnight. Unless heavily rusted most tools clean up in about two hours.

If your tool has loose or moving parts to it you need to be sure they are securely attached "electrically" so they will cleanup with the rest of the tool.

For an example just because the blade adjusting fork on your plane is pinned to the casting don't assume that it has a good electrical connection. There are several tricks to assuring a good electrical contact of moving parts.

1. Wrap a rubber band around the tool and the moving part to make a tighter connection.

2. Wedge a paper clip or other small object into the joint or hinge of a moving part to tighten the physical and thus the electrical connection.

3. Attach a clip lead ($2.99 from Radio Shack) or similar wire to the tool and the moving part to make a good electrical connection between them.

4. Use your imagination.

If the current is too high and taxes your battery charger, here are a few things you can try.

1. Increase the distance between the anode and your tool being cleaned.

2. Reduce the amount of anode in the vat. Lift it out slightly.

3. Reduce the operating voltage or increase the current range of the battery charger setting.

If you don't see an immediate reaction beginning in the vat when you plug in the battery charger, check all of your connections carefully. It can be difficult to get a good electrical connection on a heavily rusted tool. This is where the ammeter on your battery charger comes in handy. You can tell at a glance if you have a good connection to the tool. The bubbling action should start immediately after power is applied.

If the tool in your vat appears to be eroding instead of de-rusting verify that you have the battery charger polarity correct. The tool must always be connected to the "negative" black terminal. On your first attempt I urge you to use a piece of scrap iron or other insignificant item to get the feel of how the system works.

If you have a lot of cleaning to do and want to rev up your vat, try using a larger vat, place anodes on all sides of the vat and connect them all together to the positive (red) lead of your battery charger. Be sure your tool never comes into direct contact with the anodes while power is applied or you run the risk of damaging your battery charger.

There are other specialty applications for tools with non-removable wood parts or other obstacles. It is always best to break the tool down into as many small parts as allowable for cleaning but in cases where you have non removable parts that will be harmed by electrolysis such as wood handles or brass and aluminum parts you can still use this cleaning method. Try dipping non removable wooden handles in molten candle wax or dripping candle wax or paraffin onto the parts to seal them
from contact with the electrolyte solution. The wax is easily removed with a warm hair dryer.

For flat objects like saws try using towels soaked in the electrolyte on each side of the saw, hook the battery charger to the saw and place a flat anode on the towel atop the saw. This method is very inefficient and will require moving the anode around to various locations as the rust abates but it is still a means of cleaning a saw without removing the handle.

You might also consider using a large diameter PVC or plastic pipe, stood on end with one end capped, as a vat to hang a saw blade or other long object into. Plastic rain gutter can also be useful for cleaning long objects.

For anode material I shop the flea markets and second hand stores. I buy up all of their loose stainless steel pan lids for about 25 cents a piece or less. These can be flattened, cut, bent or mangled for any configuration. Avoid the aluminum lids, they're trouble with a capital "T". If stainless steel is not available an old baking sheet or similar iron or steel object will work well. It simply deteriorates faster. Again, keep in mind that stainless steel may create a more toxic result to deal with.

As for the disposal of the nasty water after use, you can save it and continue using it by replenishing the water as it evaporates. Or, you can pour in on your lawn. I have dumped mine on the lawn all winter here in South Texas and the grass loves the iron rich water and does not seem to suffer from the other contents.

What if you're using sodium chloride as the electrolytic salt. Think again and please don't do it.

Nothing much changes at the cathode...but at the anode, chlorine is oxidized...that is, each chlorine ion donates an electron to the iron...thereby becoming a chlorine atom. Chlorine atoms combine to form chlorine gas (CL2).

**Caution** Chlorine gas...in addition to being poisonous...facilitates combustion...just like oxygen. If you must use sodium chloride...use precautions. Make certain you have plenty of air circulation in a large environment. Don't take chances...it's far better to be safe...than sorry.

Have fun with this and remember "this ain't rocket science."

Nathan
Webmaster@sawsets.com
Copyright © 1998 all rights reserved

bjtindall@mindspring.com
Contributed by Bill Tindall
& Spencer Hochstettler

HOW IT WORKS

The Electrochemistry of Rust Removal By Electrolysis

The cleaning process has 4 components- a battery charger, the water with sodium carbonate (washing soda) dissolved in it, an anode (stainless steel object such as a spoon) and the cathode (the rusty iron).

The solution The solution of sodium carbonate has two purposes. First, sodium carbonate is basic. The electrochemical reactions that occur at the rusted iron work best in a basic solution. Lye( sodium hydroxide) would work as well but it is less safe to use. Sodium bicarbonate, baking soda, may not work as well as sodium carbonate because it is less basic. The other purpose for the sodium carbonate is to make the water conduct electricity. When the salt, sodium carbonate, is dissolved in water it becomes sodium ions, Na+, and carbonate ions CO3-2 . These positive and negative charged ions carry the current in solution. Carbonate moves to the positive wire from the battery charger and sodium moves to the negative wire. This movement of ions through the solution results in a current, just like electrons moving in a wire results in a current. Pure water has a high resistance, about 20 million ohms per centimeter, and negligible current would pass without the sodium carbonate ions.

The battery charger is a source of electrical current and voltage. Current is the flow of electrons in a wire. Voltage is a measure of the electron energy. So, the battery charger provides electrons with an energy of 12 volts at its negative lead and accepts electrons at its positive lead. The current indicated by the meter provides a measure of how many electrons are flowing. Current can also flow through water, if the water has ions dissolved in it, as provided by the sodium carbonate.

**Caution** Hydrogen gas reacts explosively with oxygen (in the presence of heat) to produce water vapor. Take Michael Sullivan's advise seriously about shutting down the power before adjusting/removing the electrodes.

If you are using electrolysis to remove rust...and have a considerable broth of bubbles...be very cautious. That broth is not the place to discard a glowing cigarette ember, lit match...or any other spark. Be warned...!!

http://www.rickswoodshopcreations.com/miscellaneous/rust_removal.htm

2016

Make Your Own Dad-Gum Sports Drink

Recently in my work and frequency outdoors in this unbearably hot Florida summer, I've come to crave Gatorade in the afternoon. After an exhausting day in the heat and humidity I can come in and literally drink a quart in a single five minute break. This past week we had 98 degree days and 95% humidity. The cost of that refreshment and electrolyte replacement is usually $1.50 or more (per quart) cold from a convenience store or $1.00 if you have the forethought to keep some in the fridge you were able to buy on sale.

With some online searching, comparing and modifying others research I developed my own recipe. It is virtually the same as Gatorade Recipe by fungus amungus on Instructables, but this one is sugar free to be diabetic friendly because it uses Stevia instead of sucrose. You really need to read the article Gatorade Recipe because Mr. Fungus Amungus does a great job explaining the sodium, potassium and sugar ratios and cost breakdown.

After creating the recipe and putting it all together, I had an original bottle of Glacier Ice Gatorade. Using powdered Kool-Aid as my flavoring, a similar flavor is their Blue Raspberry Lemonade. I then used my best scientific skills to put together a taste test for my wife to compare.  I call it double-blind, because I didn't know what I was doing and she didn't know what it should taste like. The results were that she liked my recipe better than the original. Hooray!

Here is my recipe for a 2 quart batch which cost about $0.65 (65 cents) a quart.  Using table sugar would cut that price down significantly, but would raise the carbohydrates. My recipe has about 2 grams of carbohydrates per 1 cup serving, using sugar raises that to about 15 grams per cup.

Gus and Sandy's Gatorade

Ingredients
64 fluid ounces of water
1 packet of Kool-Aid of your favorite flavor *
8 single serve packets of Stevia **
1/4 teaspoon table salt OR Sea Salt OR Pink Himalayan Sea Salt (sodium)
1/8 teaspoon Morton Lite Salt (potassium)

Directions
In a juice pitcher add 1/2 the water.  Add all the ingredients and stir.  Add the rest of the water, stir again, refrigerate and serve.

* 1 cup of 100% fruit juice can be used as a substitute for flavor.
** sugar or honey can be used as a sweetener substitute depending on your dietary restrictions and taste.

Special acknowledgement - To my sweet wife Sandy for being a good sport, so she gets her name on the recipe too! Thank you Honey.

End Note: I just realized now that my special recipe is just sugar free Kool-Aid with a pinch of salt. LOL.  I'm such a nerd, but it's special to me!

My White Bread Recipe

I'm not a connoisseur of bread or bakery items.  I'm a utilitarian.  I make bread for toast, sandwiches and other uses to serve a family.  Wheat, Rye and specialty/gourmet breads are fine, but I bake family bread similar to American store bought white bread.  I've done the specialty loaves with exotic spices and herbs, cheeses and nuts, but I still come back to the trusted standard of simple ingredients.

If I were to bake my loaf from scratch, by hand in an oven or on a hearth I would still use the same recipe and order of ingredients because it has worked for centuries.

Back in about 1995 I purchased a ZojiRushi bread maker because it was "top of the line" by Consumer Reports at the time.  I have been using that same bread maker ever since, even though it makes vertical loaves and not the standard horizontal to simulate a loaf of store bought bread.  It is one of my top 10 purchases over my lifetime I'd dare to say

I use a balance (scale) when I can because of simplicity.  Flour is easier to measure by the gram, salt is easier to measure by the teaspoon.  I'll give both measurements and you can choose.  If you use strictly measuring cups and spoons you'll be fine, strictly a scale and you'll also be fine.  Use both and you'll save some time.  (I'm a poet and don't know it.)

Here is my recipe for Basic White Bread.

With the bread maker pan on the balance (scale) press Zero or Tare between ingredients.  Add them IN THIS ORDER.

• 1 1/3 cups water (320 mL or grams)
• 4 Tbsp. sugar (46 g) - sucrose for the yeast
• 2 Tbsp. dried milk (8 g) which provides lactose for the yeast, plus lubricant.
• 2 tsp. salt (11 g) - provides seasoning
• 2 1/2 Tbsp. butter or vegetable oil (35 g) - I use veggie oil.  The important thing is oil provides lubrication in the process. Oils have less fat than butter, and are a better lubricant.
• 4 1/4 cups of flour(544 g), a discussion item, but - I prefer Gold Medal Unbleached Bread flour, but frankly I will use anything in my cabinet.  I mix flours if I have to, rather than take a trip to the store.
• Yeast - add 2 tsp or 1 packet of active dry yeast (6 g) to the top of the pile. - Check the date for expiration.

Place the pan in the bread maker, set the mode to Quick Bread  and press Start. Walk away for 4 hours - go somewhere. One note of caution here.  If I do this before I go to bed the bread machine keeps me up all night with the aroma more than the sound.  I have to bake my bread on the weekends or earlier in the day.

I add the ingredients in this order to keep the liquids separate from the solids as long as possible, and the yeast separate from everything else as long as possible.  This insures the yeast is not affected from contact from too hot or cold water, or die because it contacts the salt.

In about 4 hours you'll have an edible, tasty, utilitarian loaf of bread that is delicious fresh or for sandwiches this week.

My last batch went moldy after a week kept on the kitchen counter-top, because there are no preservatives in this bread.   We ate most and gave the rest to our backyard birds.

Matzah 2016

I really have an appreciation for Jewish people. I'll never understand what they've been through, or the discrimination they've faced or face today. However, I have a deep respect for their traditions, therefore the following recipe, an adaptation from recipe Matzah.

Matzah - the bread made by the Jews during the Passover...I know Wiki is not the best source for information. I am only including this link as a reference for general knowledge...

In preparation for the Passover this year, April 22-30, this is how I made my Matzah, and it is a superior recipe to previous years...

Move an oven rack near the top of oven and preheat oven to 475 degrees F.

Ingredients:
1 cup all-purpose, unbleached kosher flour
about 1/3 cup water (more/less if needed)
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon olive oil
1 teaspoon all-purpose flour for dusting on the counter and the roller

Yields: about 4 – 5 inch diameter pieces of unleavened bread. In a religious ceremony, this amount would serve approximately 100 people.

Add in all ingredients to mixer bowl.

Move an oven rack near the top of oven and preheat oven to 475 degrees F.

Preheat a heavy baking sheet or baking stone in the oven. Dust a clean work surface and a rolling pin with 1 teaspoon flour, or as needed. Place 1 cup of flour into a mixing bowl; set a timer for about 16 minutes (18 minutes maximum). Start the timer; pour the water, about 1 tablespoon at a time, into the flour. Stir the water and flour together with a fork until the dough forms a rough ball, remove the dough to the prepared work surface, knead rapidly and firmly until smooth, about 30 seconds to 1 minute.

Divide the dough into four equal pieces. Swiftly roll each piece into a ball. Roll each piece of dough out into a 5-inch pancake and it will be about ¼ inch thick, dusting the top and rolling pin with flour as needed. Gradually roll the pancakes out to a size of about 5 inches  Roll from the center out. The bread rounds should be thin about 1/4 inch thick. Using a fork, quickly pierce each bread about 20 times, all over, to prevent rising. The holes should go completely through the bread. Flip the bread over, and pierce each piece another 20 times or so.

Place the rounds onto the baking sheet. Place the baking sheet onto the rack near the top of the oven, and bake for 5 minutes; turn the breads over and bake an additional 4 minutes, until the Matzah are lightly browned and crisp.

Recipe Modification! - April 2, 2016 - Today I didn't want to mess with a rolling pin and flouring the cabinet today so I mixed it in a bowl and made it flat like a thick tortilla, then popped it in the oven.  Bake @ 475 for 8 minutes, flip then 8 more minutes.  A longer baking time.

Transfer to a wire rack to cool. Lightly anoint each Matzah with olive oil, using a brush, and sprinkle generously with salt.

Footnotes:

• Making Matzah breads kosher for Passover requires using special Kosher flour that has been guarded from contact with liquids. I used Gold Medal, Kosher, unbleached all-purpose flour.
• The cook is allowed no longer than 18 minutes from the point they combine the flour and water to when they remove the Matzah from the oven in order for it to be considered fit for Passover.

May is a Time for Florida Hurricane Preparedness

It has been a quiet past few years as far as hurricanes go in Florida.  June 1 is the start of Hurricane Season in Florida.  Now is the time to prepare.

We can never let our guard down however, or think it will never happen to us.

I will be writing more later, but attached are a few resources and my plan to help us be prepared.  It appears I am writing this for others, but it is actually a to-do list for me!  I hope you get something out of it as well. :)

This link from NOAA is to a very good document on how you can keep your family safe.

The University of Florida Disaster Handbook is a great resource.

The Florida Homeowners Handbook to Prepare for Natural Hazards is also very good.

This is what I'm going to do...10 Easy Steps!

1. Get my paperwork together, insurance, home owners documentation.  If my neighborhood is declared off-limits by Emergency Management Services, they will not let me back in without proof of ownership.  Back up e-documents to "the cloud" for anywhere access.
2. Fill my cars up with gas, get ready to evacuate if necessary.
3. Work - Keep in touch with my employer.  I don't want to return home, and find out I was fired for not reporting to work.
4. Housing...Locate my nearest shelter.  Protect my house.  Stash a key in the yard somewhere for a neighbor if necessary.  Know how to turn off home utilities if necessary.
5. Have PRINTED in my files family and friends contact information. Don't rely on e-information.  Google or web services may be disabled.
6. Get 7 days of emergency food ready that will keep NOT refrigerated.  Prepare drinking water, 1 gallon per person per day, and flushing / washing water (prepare to fill the canoe with the hose.)
7. Get my Go-Files ready.  The most important financial files in a grab box ready to go.  Keep my most precious documents and photos secure and ready to grab.
8. Stuff...Get some cash on hand.  $500 to $1000 will cover most emergency expenses for 72 hours. Any cash is better than no cash.  Have books or games ready to keep you occupied for endless hours of shelter time.  Have 30 days of prescriptions on hand for all in your family.
9. Shelter - Pre-arrange for an out-of-state (or harms way) place to stay.  Humm, Who are my friends in Georgia and Alabama?  Your nearest safe-house could be within a few hours drive.
10. Communication - Keep in constant contact with my neighborhood loved ones, keep connected with my church family.  Exchange numbers.  Do they need assistance?  This is a time to connect with our fellow community members.  Keep an emergency radio handy for local information.  

Testing of Our New Rocket Stove

Back in January I was introduced to the Rocket Stove.  It is a hand made, economical, very efficient cooking and heating tool. The principles were described by Dr. Larry Winiarski from Aprovecho in 1982 and stoves based on this design won Ashden Awards in both 2005 and 2006. Interest in rocket stoves has led to the development of rocket mass heaters and other innovations. Source and photo (left) by Wikipedia, Rocket Stove.  They are available to purchase, but can easily be built with local materials at a fraction of the cost. I don't want to under emphasize the value of how little wood this stove uses.  It has allowed people in remote African and South American countries to use small sticks, leaves and grass to cook and heat for their families and not have to wander into dangerous remote areas to collect large amounts of firewood.

I built mine with materials purchased a the local home center, some scrap 4 inch PVC pipe, cut at a 45 degree angle and an old 5 gallon bucket.  I spent about $30, for materials enough to build two stoves. I followed the instructions from Gene Lonergan on YouTube when I made the stove. I mixed my Cement/Perlite mixture at 8:1 by volume using an empty coffee can and a wheel barrow. If I did it again, I would use 6:1, decreasing its thermal conductivity a bit and increasing its mass and structural stability.  As is, the weight of my stove is about 6 lbs, and as you can see from the photo (right), is light enough to sit on a glass table without worrying about breakage.  Also notice that it is the shape of a 5 gallon bucket.

Cooking with the stove.  For free, I was able to get gas stove grates from the local scrap yard to place on top of the stove, and underneath the cooking surface to allow for adequate air flow.  With the handful of dried sticks shown, Sandy and I were able to cook a meal of Blackend fish in the cast iron skillet.

One thing I need to add is this is not a coal burning fire!  Just the opposite.  It is a voracious wood burner, but in very small amounts.  It is best to use longer sticks than the ones I used, so as to be able to feed them into the fire.  We kept stoking the fire to provide a continual hot fire throughout the cooking process, and when the meal was done we stopped the wood feed.  After that, the fire was virtually out in 10 minutes.  At no time did the table or sides of the Rocket Stove come even close to warm to the touch.  The insulating properties of the volcanic Perlite responded as predicted.

For survivalists, naturalists and those interested in inexpensive sustainable energy tools and resources, the Rocket Stove is a Top 10 innovation in my opinion!